Canada ain't a total freezing hellhole this winter. It's been t-shirt weather until mid December, and the first real snowfall was after christmas. The glorious El-Nino effect (hauntingly global warmingy as it is) is gone now, and it's nasty out there. I did a little trip to Joyride 150 (click here to see on IG) with Dan and Nash to escape the nastiness. Dan and I have ridden at Joyride countless times, but this was Nash's first introduction to the idea of a bike park and the idea of real jumps. This departure from street riding was so refreshing to him he requested a park-specific bike so he can keep up when his work with Boss Culture leads him to join us on Schedule BMX trips. That same day, Julian, another of our old friends got in contact with me and mentioned his bike was in a poor state. Unlike Nash, Julian rides burly street exclusively. This set a good stage for an experiment. I wanted to see if my used bike hustling skills were still up to par. On a tiny budget of about $200 and on 48 hrs notice, I called my contacts and got on Kijiji. Through buying a few parts and trading a LOT of parts, I managed to put together two bespoke bikes with specific build guidelines.
The completion of these bikes got me thinking. Ever since before Schedule was dedicated to BMX, friends of Schedule have always gotten hookups on bikes and I put a lot of effort into keeping them rolling. As recently as a few years ago though, getting a light, modern bike was a real challenge. When I first started working with used bikes before high school, my budget was never more than $100 so the best bikes I could buy were old, heavy customs from the 90's. Bikes like my old Volume Dinosaur and Haro Mirra 540 were cheap and strong enough to last a few years, so we were satisfied. But around the time I started college, I had been working at Cyclepath long enough to make money and connections for good mid range bikes. Fit and Mirraco completes were lighter than what we were used to and still strong so we became satisfied with them. Even when we got an aftermarket frame like our Subrosa Villicus v1, we ran OEM parts on it because it was what we knew, and we considered these bikes the best we would ever need. Now Schedule BMX riders have high end customs like my Subrosa Silva and Quinten's Fit Mac. I don't use stock wheels any more. I always custom lace my own unique wheels with aftermarket parts. All my sealed bearings run like butter. I see new parts coming out and I don't feel the need to buy them because my parts are well chosen exactly as i like and trust them. And yet I don't spend any more than I did in high school on bikes. I still buy used or on sale only, and I almost never spend more than $100 on a bike at once.
So how did the used BMX market go from a Haro F2 costing $100 to a Dartmoor Yuki or a Cult costing $100? How did it go from a 35 lb. bike with big gears, tiny bars, 1-pc cranks, and loose-ball bearings all the way to full chromoly, sealed bearing, 25 lb bikes with tubular cranks and modern geometry in about a decade? Well I got into it in my previous rants, but basically machining technology has gone up, production costs have gone down, and BMX has turned from a fashionable mode of transportation back to a genuine sport in the mainstream since the slump in 90's to mid 00's. Because people want bikes that are strong and light, companies have been getting more competitive, so you can get a full chromoly bike for under $500 new. With a warranty and free service, the shiny new options are pretty tempting. Keep in mind a decade ago that 35 lb Haro cost that much new. This means that BMX bike have an inherently lower resale value, but at the lower price they are easy sales to riders who do their own bike repairs or are on a budget. They can be hustled for a reasonable profit or to realize a squad goal.
So first I build Nash's bike. I contacted an friend and picked up the Dartmoor Yuki frame that hasn't been used in a while. It's full chromoly, light, and has super tight responsive geometry. The removable brake mounts and low stand over checked Nash's needs for a park setup, the slimmer seat will allow the better range of motion he wanted, and the wheels and tires are from Revenge Industries and Animal respectively, and will give him the durability to ride a little street when needed. The last thing on the list of requirements for this build was a subdued colorway with a heavy emphasis on black, white, and gray.
Julian's bike had fewer specific requirements. He's been a friend of ours since high school and he's been riding the same bike since. It was a bad bike when it was new, and every part had worn out over the years. Anything would have been an improvement. He requested that the seat be reasonably low and that the frame be gray to go with the gold Black Label wheel I had lined up for him. I felt he needed fresh tires, so I found a barely used set of Premium Refuse/Resist fat tires. A full chromoly frame was obviously a requirement, and this Cult checked that box with good street geometry. Other than that, this build was fairly open but came out feeling solid, stable, and comfortably spaced out despite being built on a budget.
Building each of these bikes, starting from a stock complete and building up could have come close 800 each easily. On a budget of $100 each, I managed to build two solid, modern setups where even the stock parts are of reasonable quality. If I worked a little sales magic on the used market, I could easily double my money selling these bikes. If I hustled hard and pushed a tough sale, I could sell them for much, much more. I could then start all over again, and make another lump of profit with the next setups.
These bikes aren't for profit though. They're for working on the BMX community on a grassroots level. They're for friends who ride and want to get more serious, and they're for friends who have strong social circles outside of bicycles. Every rider they bring into the fold strengthens the BMX community, and every new rider is a potential opportunity for Schedule BMX. The More, the Merrier.
Fat, Jolly Christmas and a scintillating new year from myself and the rest of Schedule BMX
-Peter Collins
Tuesday, 29 December 2015
Sunday, 1 November 2015
Peter's Ranting: 4130-101
So this isn't a riding update or anything, I just want to clear up a few misconceptions and questions i'm often asked or told at Cyclepath or local spots. These misconceptions and questions are related to BMX frames. Everyone knows that 4130 means Chromoly which mean good, 1020 means Hi-Ten which means bad. I hear a lot about frames manufactured overseas being lower quality. I'm told that "old" frames, even a few years old, feel dull and heavy because the steel loses its springyness. I've even had a kid pull out a periodic table from his grade 10 textbook and try to use it to prove chromoly isn't steel. Most of the time when i hear stuff like this, it's because someone heard it from a friend or read it on the internet and took it as gospel truth. If you want to do more research on this topic, I'd recommend clicking on Sheldon Brown's name if you want good detailed information. It's not a BMX related site but the facts about bicycles in general are relevant here.
Chromoly steel is represented by the number 4130. A lot of riders assume that higher numbers equate to better quality tubing. This is not true. The numbers associated with metals actually contain information about the metal. 4130 is a family of steels designated by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers). 4xxx steels are Molybdenum steels. 41xx steels are Molybdenum steels with one other material, Chromium. That's why it's called Chromoly. The last two numbers indicate the carbon content of the metal. In this case, the number 30 indicated a .30% carbon content, making Chromoly a high-carbon steel. The high carbon content allows the frame to be heat treated, but makes the material slightly harder to weld. Hi-Tensile steel, known as 1020 is a plain mild steel, indicated by the 1. The first 0 indicates no extra alloys. The 20 indicates a .20% carbon content making the steel a low carbon metal that cannot be heat treated effectively for use in bicycles. The reason 4130 is better than 1020 steel is that in bicycle applications, the greater strength to weight ratio makes the bikes easier to ride, the alloys make the material more hard wearing (rust resistance, etc.), and the vibration qualities are arguably more pleasant to ride. In applications outside bikes where weight isn't a factor but malleability is, 1020 steel may be the better choice.
Now that I've cleared up what 4130 is, I feel like I should clear up the difference between strength and stiffness. Imagine you walk up to a tree in the early summer. Imagine you pick up a dry stick from under the tree and you try to bend it. It won't bend. It will stay the same shape until it snaps. This stick is stiff but weak. Now imagine you rip a fresh stick the same size and width from the tree and you try to bend it. Because it's still full of moisture, it's soft but it will bend a fair amount before finally snapping. This stick is soft but strong. It takes a greater amount of force to make the stick break, or yield. 4130 is used in BMX frames instead of 1020 steel or 6061 aluminum, for example, because it strikes the best balance between strength and stiffness. An impact that may dent a 1020 frame or crack a 6065 frame or otherwise push a frame past its "yield point" would ideally put a tiny distortion in a 4130 frame and not much more. The same applies for longevity in terms of regular wear as well as impact damage. Aluminum frames don't rust, but are so stiff they fatigue noticeably with time. Mild steel frames will rust much more easily than a 4130 frame. 4130 is just right.
Continuing with the topic of metal fatigue, 4130 frames do experience fatigue but they are extremely long lasting if well maintained. No matter how bad it is, even if it's about to die, steel frames do not "go dead" or lose their ride quality with use. Any wear that may compromise the ride quality would be a big, visible crack or hole that allows the frame to flex beyond its normal range of motion (or past its "yield point") and would render the frame unusable anyways. No matter hold old your steel BMX frame is, it will always provide the same ride as it did when it was new because the elastic response, or elastic modulus, of the frame is an inherent quality of the metal that never changes. In fact, all kinds of steel have the same basic elastic modulus, regardless of age.
The differences between different brands of tubing and frames from different manufactures is not in the metal, but in the design and manufacturing technique. The inherent qualities of steel never change. For example, if you made two identical frames but made one from 4130 and one from 1020, they would be the same weight and have the same elastic modulus. The different alloys in 4130 steel actually allow manufactures to make frames differently (thinner tubes, butting, CNC, and other machining techniques) to dial weight and ride quality while maintaining the same strength. When someone tells you that a frame manufactured overseas won't be as good, they're usually wrong but even if they are right, the metal has nothing to do with it. If a Taiwanese company and and American company both made identical frames out of identical Reynolds steel, both frames would provide identical ride qualities and the same overall strength. The differences between the American frame and the Taiwanese frame would be that the Taiwanese frame would cost a little bit less due to lower production costs, and the American company would be able to provide better customer service (i.e. faster warranty) being based on the same continent. Country of origin does not affect the quality of the bike.
I'm done. Sorry for ranting like a crazy homeless guy. I might do a rant about frame geometry later this week.
Chromoly steel is represented by the number 4130. A lot of riders assume that higher numbers equate to better quality tubing. This is not true. The numbers associated with metals actually contain information about the metal. 4130 is a family of steels designated by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers). 4xxx steels are Molybdenum steels. 41xx steels are Molybdenum steels with one other material, Chromium. That's why it's called Chromoly. The last two numbers indicate the carbon content of the metal. In this case, the number 30 indicated a .30% carbon content, making Chromoly a high-carbon steel. The high carbon content allows the frame to be heat treated, but makes the material slightly harder to weld. Hi-Tensile steel, known as 1020 is a plain mild steel, indicated by the 1. The first 0 indicates no extra alloys. The 20 indicates a .20% carbon content making the steel a low carbon metal that cannot be heat treated effectively for use in bicycles. The reason 4130 is better than 1020 steel is that in bicycle applications, the greater strength to weight ratio makes the bikes easier to ride, the alloys make the material more hard wearing (rust resistance, etc.), and the vibration qualities are arguably more pleasant to ride. In applications outside bikes where weight isn't a factor but malleability is, 1020 steel may be the better choice.
Now that I've cleared up what 4130 is, I feel like I should clear up the difference between strength and stiffness. Imagine you walk up to a tree in the early summer. Imagine you pick up a dry stick from under the tree and you try to bend it. It won't bend. It will stay the same shape until it snaps. This stick is stiff but weak. Now imagine you rip a fresh stick the same size and width from the tree and you try to bend it. Because it's still full of moisture, it's soft but it will bend a fair amount before finally snapping. This stick is soft but strong. It takes a greater amount of force to make the stick break, or yield. 4130 is used in BMX frames instead of 1020 steel or 6061 aluminum, for example, because it strikes the best balance between strength and stiffness. An impact that may dent a 1020 frame or crack a 6065 frame or otherwise push a frame past its "yield point" would ideally put a tiny distortion in a 4130 frame and not much more. The same applies for longevity in terms of regular wear as well as impact damage. Aluminum frames don't rust, but are so stiff they fatigue noticeably with time. Mild steel frames will rust much more easily than a 4130 frame. 4130 is just right.
Continuing with the topic of metal fatigue, 4130 frames do experience fatigue but they are extremely long lasting if well maintained. No matter how bad it is, even if it's about to die, steel frames do not "go dead" or lose their ride quality with use. Any wear that may compromise the ride quality would be a big, visible crack or hole that allows the frame to flex beyond its normal range of motion (or past its "yield point") and would render the frame unusable anyways. No matter hold old your steel BMX frame is, it will always provide the same ride as it did when it was new because the elastic response, or elastic modulus, of the frame is an inherent quality of the metal that never changes. In fact, all kinds of steel have the same basic elastic modulus, regardless of age.
The differences between different brands of tubing and frames from different manufactures is not in the metal, but in the design and manufacturing technique. The inherent qualities of steel never change. For example, if you made two identical frames but made one from 4130 and one from 1020, they would be the same weight and have the same elastic modulus. The different alloys in 4130 steel actually allow manufactures to make frames differently (thinner tubes, butting, CNC, and other machining techniques) to dial weight and ride quality while maintaining the same strength. When someone tells you that a frame manufactured overseas won't be as good, they're usually wrong but even if they are right, the metal has nothing to do with it. If a Taiwanese company and and American company both made identical frames out of identical Reynolds steel, both frames would provide identical ride qualities and the same overall strength. The differences between the American frame and the Taiwanese frame would be that the Taiwanese frame would cost a little bit less due to lower production costs, and the American company would be able to provide better customer service (i.e. faster warranty) being based on the same continent. Country of origin does not affect the quality of the bike.
I'm done. Sorry for ranting like a crazy homeless guy. I might do a rant about frame geometry later this week.
Thursday, 22 October 2015
Mississauga's Downtown (Photo's only, bro)
When we're all injured or otherwise occupied, the few of us that are free will just go and take photos for the sake for taking photos. No tricks because they're not even needed. Mississauga just looks so damn good that just having a bike and a camera turns out great results any time.
Peter and Avy in Mississauga's City Center area
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